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The City of Cayalá, in the background, is a gleaming, planned city on the outskirts of Guatemala’s capital.

Guatemala Dispatch

New Utopian Enclave? Or a Testament to Inequality?

The development of Cayalá is utopian, serene and prizewinning. As an elite stronghold in one of Latin America’s most unequal nations, it is also divisive.

The City of Cayalá, in the background, is a gleaming, planned city on the outskirts of Guatemala’s capital. Credit...

By Simon Romero and Jody García

Photographs by Daniele Volpe

Reporting from Guatemala City

  • Jan. 18, 2024

Try going for a stroll in much of Guatemala City: It is a pedestrian’s nightmare.

Motorcycles speed down crowded sidewalks. Rifle-grasping guards squint at each passerby, sizing up potential assailants. Smoke-belching buses barrel through stop signs.

But tucked within the chaotic capital’s crazy-quilt sprawl, there is a dreamlike haven where none of that exists.

In the City of Cayalá, a utopian domain created by one of Guatemala’s richest families, the streets are quiet and orderly, the stores are upscale and the homes attainable — if only to families from the country’s small, moneyed elite, or foreigners, like the American diplomats stationed at the huge newly built United States embassy nearby.

Evoking the feel of a serene Mediterranean town, Cayalá features milky white buildings with red-tile roofs, a colossal civic hall with Tuscan columns, cafes and high-priced restaurants, colonnade-lined plazas and walkable, stone-paved boulevards. All of this is open to the public — except for the gated sections where about 2,000 families live.


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